Insight and Opinion

Perfecting the fashion pop-up means embracing big ideas: How a playful approach to temporary spaces can drive business growth

Written by Alice Ratcliffe, Appear Here | 24 October 2018

In a world where more and more people are looking to spend their money on experiences over products, physical retail has become an important way for brands to build emotional connections with their fans. Particularly through pop-ups, which give brands the flexibility to be more specific in where, when and how they attract an audience and therefore become a far more effective way to grow the business over bombarding the masses with generic campaigns.

Where once popups were mainly associated with high-street charity shops, today everyone is doing it from emerging designers to global luxury fashion houses. What’s more exciting is that the success stories have been less about the budget and more about the idea. Temporary stores are currently estimated to be a $50 billion industry globally so even though the stores themselves don’t last, the concept is just gathering momentum. Fashion brands know in order to survive they need to offer something more than just products to buy. People are looking for moments they can share, souvenirs of their experiences and ways to fill up their Instagram feeds as well as their shopping bags. The challenge for retail brands is how can they bring their products to life in a way that engages people in the real world. Luckily, the fashion industry is built on creativity, inspiration and emotion, so it’s an easy one to play around with.

A good pop-up doesn’t just mean a physical experience either, it could be emotional or even spiritual. Coach caused a storm with its #LifeCoach activation which celebrated New York’s creative spirit. Visitors were encouraged to explore the space drawing on walls, playing kitsch carnival games and having their futures told by psychics. See some images of the concept below:


Images of the Coach store pop-up in New York. (Source: Appear Here)

When it comes to the physical space, it pays to go big and stand out and create something worth sharing online. According to the Guardian, black is out and instead, fashion has become a kaleidoscope of “millennial peacocking.” This applies to a brand’s store aesthetic too. Just look at Mansur Gavriel’s ‘Candy Shop,’ which was appropriately covered floor to ceiling in millennial pink. Or how about Supreme X LV’s aggressively bright red shopfronts – a colour as cocky as the brand itself. During NYFW, Tory Burch filled a space with thousands of pink carnations and moss to mirror the floral, feminine style of the new collection. Similarly, Chanel’s beauty pop-up in LA featured purples, oranges and pink whereby forgoing their classic black-and-white brand for something fresher. All drew in crowds like colour-hungry moths to a flame, which spread further online.

Pop-ups also bridge the (once ginormous) gap between designers and consumers. They’ve become a place where brands can reveal a behind-the-scenes look at their business such as the inspirations behind the latest collection or new part of their brand’s story. For example, Melbourne based designer Stephanie Downey launched a temporary ‘Dress Up’ store where she put on dinner parties for friends to network. The meetups were even turned into a short film called ‘The Dinner’. Events like these provide a platform for the final step in the customer journey i.e. a real-life reason to wear the new clothes. At the end of the day, it’s what they were made for in the first place.

The best fashion pop-ups from the last few years have one thing in common – they don’t overwhelm customers with a barrage of products and tailor their offering to the location and audience. For instance, this summer Dior set up shop on the upmarket island of Mykonos, selling high-end holiday pieces, including several versions of their tote bags. While Fendi targeted London’s surge in tourists over the summer installing an ice-cream stand in Selfridges where visitors could also buy bespoke Fendi postcards designed by an in-house calligrapher. What’s interesting is that fashion brands are now measuring the success of these activations by the engagement they drive in-store and online. Sales in-store are often a secondary focus – or not relevant at all. Many online direct to consumer fashion brands view their website as their flagship location and pop-ups as an extension of their advertising campaigns. Fashion brands are embracing the flexibility of pop-ups to keep their retail presence fresh and relevant. Where permanent stores can quickly feel stagnant or outdated, temporary spaces allow brands to explore their personality, see what works and test the market before committing. Experimentation opens up brands to new audiences, gives their existing customers new reasons to interact and ultimately leads to ideas worth sharing.

About Appear Here
Appear Here is the leading marketplace for short-term space. Its mission is to create a world where anyone with an idea can find space to make it happen. With over 180,000 brands in its community, Appear Here works with everyone from industry leading brands such as Google and Apple to artists including Kanye West and Jamie XX, plus thousands more emerging designers, independent brands and artists. Named one of Fast Company’s most creative businesses and The Financial Times’ most ‘Disruptive Companies,’ Appear Here has become the go-to destination to make ideas happen. 

Visit www.appearhere.co.uk to find out more.